The Uses of Elastic in Sewing

Elastic is made from several materials and is used in a variety of ways in sewing projects. Depending on your project, you can use elastic for the stretchy waistband, for gathering areas of a skirt, for shirring a top and to secure the raw edges in swimwear and lingerie. Elastic is a durable, versatile product and is affordably priced, making it an easy go-to selection for many projects.

Garment Openings
Braided or knitted elastic is available in a variety of lengths and can be used several ways to make a stretchy waistband, neckline or sleeve. These elastics can be applied directly to the fabric with a stretchy zigzag stitch or can be inserted through a casing, or tube, sewed to the wrong side of the fabric. The elastic stretches as needed, but cinches the fabric down when not stretched, giving a gathered look and a solid fit. Some of these types of elastic lose their structural integrity when pierced with a needle, so check the manufacturer's instructions to make sure you are applying it properly.

Gathering
Small ¼-inch knitted or woven elastic, or plastic elastic tape, can be applied to seams you want to gather. The elastic not only gathers the fabric, it also gives the fabric some stretch, which can be useful for pants or shirts that may need to be pulled over wider areas. The elastic also acts as a strengthener to the area you are gathering. To gather with elastic, stretch the seam you would like gathered so it lays flat. Gather your seam either by machine or by hand with a long basting stitch. When the seam is gathered to the fullness you want, measure the full length of the gathered seam. Add 2 inches to this measurement and cut your elastic to this length. Apply the elastic to the gathered seam with a stretch straight stitch.

Shirring
Shirring is the application of elastic O-neck Bandage Dress bobbin thread to multiple layers of stitches so that a section or area of a garment gathers. It resembles smocking and is favored for little girl's tops and dresses. To shirr, gently wind elastic thread, found in the notions section of most fabric stores, around the bobbin. Insert the bobbin and thread the upper machine with regular thread. Sew one straight line around the circumference of your item, backstitching at the beginning and end of your seam. Lift the needle and presser foot and move the item over about ½ inch. Sew another circle. Continue this cycle until the entire area you want to shirr is sewn. Remove the item from the machine and apply steam from your steam iron to the area to shrink the elastic and gather the fabric.

Lingerie & Swimwear
Lingerie and swimwear are most often finished with decorative elastic edging or with rubber elastic placed inside all opening seams in the garment. To apply elastic directly to the fabric, pin it over a folded edge and carefully zigzag the elastic. To place in the seams, sew a small casing around each opening and insert the elastic. Sew the edges down to secure.